The A-Z of Scent: A Perfumery Glossary
Welcome to the captivating world of perfumery! At Les Deux Fragrances, we believe that understanding the language of scent enhances your appreciation and helps you find your perfect fragrance. This glossary explains common terms used in the industry, from how perfumes are constructed to their lasting power.
Key Perfumery Terminology
Absolute: A highly concentrated, pure natural aromatic material obtained from a concrete (a waxy extract of plant material) through alcohol extraction. Absolutes are rich, true-to-nature scents often used for delicate flowers like jasmine and rose.
Accord: A harmonious blend of two or more individual fragrance notes that create a new, distinct scent profile. It's the building block of a perfume, where the combined aroma is greater than the sum of its parts. Think of a "leather accord" or a "chypre accord."
Aldehydes: Organic chemical compounds that can be naturally occurring or synthetic. In perfumery, they are known for creating bright, sparkling, clean, and sometimes waxy or metallic facets, often lending a "lift" to a fragrance .
Aroma Chemical: A synthetic molecule created in a laboratory to mimic a specific scent or to create entirely new, imaginative aromas not found in nature. Aroma chemicals allow perfumers immense creative freedom and can also enhance longevity and projection.
Atomizer: A device, usually a spray nozzle, that dispenses perfume in a fine mist, allowing for even application and optimal diffusion of the fragrance. Often refers to small, refillable travel-sized perfume bottles.
Base Notes: The deepest, heaviest, and longest-lasting notes in a fragrance pyramid. They emerge as the top and heart notes fade, providing the foundation, depth, and longevity to a perfume. Common base notes include woods (sandalwood, cedar), resins (amber, frankincense), musks, vanilla, and patchouli.
Botanical Extracts: Natural aromatic materials derived directly from plants, including flowers, leaves, roots, and resins. These can be essential oils, absolutes, or CO2 extracts.
Chypre: (Pronounced "sheep-ruh") A classic olfactory family characterized by a warm, dry, and often mossy accord, typically built around a triad of bergamot (top), cistus labdanum (heart), and oakmoss (base). They can often have fruity or floral nuances.
Cologne (Eau de Cologne - EDC): One of the lowest concentrations of fragrance, typically containing 2-4% pure perfume oil mixed with alcohol and water. It's usually light, refreshing, and lasts for a shorter duration (around 1-2 hours).
Concentration: Refers to the percentage of pure perfume oil in a fragrance formulation, diluted with alcohol and sometimes water. Higher concentrations generally mean more intensity and longer lasting power. Common concentrations include: * Eau de Cologne (EDC): 2-4% * Eau de Toilette (EDT): 5-15% * Eau de Parfum (EDP): 15-20% * Parfum (Extrait de Parfum): 20-40%
CO2 Extraction: A modern, gentle method of extracting aromatic compounds from raw materials using supercritical carbon dioxide. This process can yield extracts that are very true to the natural scent of the plant, often preserving delicate top notes that might be lost in other extraction methods.
Drydown: The final phase of a fragrance's evaporation, where the base notes become most prominent and the scent settles fully on the skin. It's the lasting impression of the perfume.
Eau de Parfum (EDP): A popular fragrance concentration containing 15-20% pure perfume oil. It offers good longevity (4-6 hours or more) and a noticeable sillage, making it suitable for most occasions.
Eau de Toilette (EDT): A lighter fragrance concentration with 5-15% pure perfume oil. It's generally fresher and more diffusive than EDP, lasting around 2-4 hours, making it ideal for everyday wear.
Enfleurage: An traditional, labor-intensive extraction method (now largely abandoned for commercial use) used for very delicate flowers like jasmine or tuberose. It involves pressing flowers onto a layer of purified fat, which absorbs their scent over time.
Essential Oil: A concentrated hydrophobic liquid containing volatile chemical compounds from plants. Essential oils are obtained through distillation (steam or water) or mechanical pressing (for citrus peels) and are the fundamental natural ingredients in many perfumes.
Extrait de Parfum (Parfum): The highest concentration of fragrance, typically 20-40% pure perfume oil. It is the most potent and long-lasting form, offering exceptional depth and sillage, often reserved for special occasions.
Family (Olfactory Family): A classification system for perfumes based on their dominant scent characteristics. Common families include Floral, Oriental (now often referred to as Amber), Woody, Fresh (Citrus, Aromatic, Green, Aquatic), Chypre, and Fougere. Understanding these families helps in identifying personal preferences.
Fixative: An ingredient used in perfumery to help a fragrance last longer on the skin by slowing down the evaporation of more volatile notes. Resins, musks, and certain woody notes often act as natural fixatives.
Flanker: A new fragrance that shares some attributes (like name, packaging, or a core scent idea) with an existing, popular perfume from the same brand. Flankers often offer variations on the original theme (e.g., a "summer edition" or an "intense" version).
Fougere: (Pronounced "foo-zhair," French for "fern") An olfactory family traditionally associated with masculine fragrances, characterized by a fresh, green, and often barbershop-like accord. Key notes often include lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin (tonka bean).
Fragrance Notes: The individual scent components that make up a perfume. They are typically categorized into three layers: top, middle (heart), and base notes, which unfold over time like a story.
Gourmand: An olfactory family of fragrances that feature "edible" or dessert-like notes, such as vanilla, caramel, chocolate, coffee, honey, and sometimes fruity or milky accords. They evoke a sense of warmth and sweetness.
Headspace Technology: An advanced technique used to capture the scent profile of living objects (like a blooming flower or a ripening fruit) in their natural environment without destroying them. This allows perfumers to recreate incredibly realistic and unique aromas.
Heart Notes (Middle Notes): The "body" or "core" of a fragrance, emerging after the top notes dissipate. They typically last longer than top notes and transition smoothly into the base notes, forming the main character of the perfume. Common heart notes include florals, spices, and green notes.
Longevity: How long a fragrance lasts on the skin. This is influenced by the concentration of perfume oil, the quality of ingredients, and individual skin chemistry.
Maceration: A traditional process in perfumery where raw materials (like flowers or resins) are steeped in alcohol over a period of time to extract their aromatic compounds.
Niche Fragrance: Perfumes produced by smaller, independent houses that often prioritize artistry, unique raw materials, and unconventional scent profiles over mass appeal. Niche fragrances typically have a more limited distribution and higher price point than designer fragrances.
Nose (Perfumer): The term for a perfumer, a highly skilled artist who creates fragrances by blending various aromatic ingredients. It requires extensive training, a keen sense of smell, and creative vision.
Olfactory: Relating to the sense of smell. "Olfactory family" refers to scent classifications.
Parfum (Extrait de Parfum): (See Concentration)
Resinoid: An extract of natural resins (like frankincense, myrrh, benzoin) obtained through solvent extraction. They are often used as fixatives and provide rich, balsamic, and warm base notes.
Sillage: (Pronounced "see-yahzh," French for "trail") The trail of scent left behind by a person wearing a fragrance. A strong sillage means the scent projects well and can be smelled from a distance.
Solvent Extraction: A method of extracting aromatic compounds from plant materials using a volatile solvent (like hexane or ethanol). This process yields a waxy substance called a "concrete," which is then processed further to obtain an "absolute."
Top Notes: The initial impression of a fragrance, the first scents you smell immediately after application. They are typically light, fresh, and volatile, evaporating quickly (within 5-15 minutes). Common top notes include citrus, light fruits, and some herbs.
Tincture: An aromatic material made by steeping raw natural ingredients (like vanilla beans, ambergris, or certain woods) in alcohol for an extended period, allowing the alcohol to extract the soluble aromatic compounds.
Vintage Perfume: A perfume that is no longer in production (discontinued) or an older formulation of a currently produced perfume. Vintage fragrances are sought after for their unique scent profiles, original ingredients, and historical significance.
At Les Deux Fragrances, we invite you to explore our collection and experience the artistry behind every bottle. We hope this glossary empowers you to speak the language of scent and discover fragrances that truly resonate with you.